LOUIS MOINET MEMORIS 200TH ANNIVERSARY GENEVA REF. LM-54.70.20 18K WHITE GOLD CHRONOGRAPH CAL. LM54 LTD/20

The "Memoris 200th Anniversary" uses a fixed graver engraving technique that is unprecedented in the history of watchmaking. Each star is worked on individually; never before has there been a starry sky with such a natural sparkle.

Watchmaking art that repurposes guillochage

The "Memoris 200th Anniversary" can be summed up in three points:

- A new hour dial - made in enamel for the first time in history of the piece

- A new mainplate, painted and decorated with star constellations

- A new translucent flange and counter bridge

The starry back consists of a brass plate coated in a translucent blue. The stars have been created using an entirely new fixed graver process. Devised by one of Louis Moinet's craftsmen, this involves attaching a specially-made lathe to a traditional rose engine (also known as a guillocheuse).

The idea is to combine the power of the rose engine with the precision of a handheld graver. The result differs from that produced by milling or stamping: while it resembles the effect traditionally associated with a guillocheuse inasmuch as material is removed, here this is focused on a tiny area with varying levels of depth - two characteristics that traditional engine turning seeks to avoid at all costs.

What is more, individual stars are all fashioned to feature different angles and depths, so that each and every one captures as much light as possible. Several fixed graver sessions are required per star. The process used is unprecedented in watchmaking - and the outstanding result gives the novel impression that certain stars really are shining.

New, crystalline transparency

For the flange and counter bridge, Ateliers Louis Moinet have used a revolutionary translucent material. Its precise makeup, produced by combining a number of composite materials and high-temperature vacuum moulding, is a closely-guarded secret. It offers a unique advantage that has won over Ateliers Louis Moinet: it is through-coloured - and yet the same time maintains a certain degree of transparency.

Using it in translucent dark blue on the flange of the new Memoris adds an exclusive sense of depth, whereas an opaque flange would have ‘locked down' the timepiece.

In its natural state, this material is as just as pure and translucent as crystal, but nowhere near as fragile, allowing it to be used for the counter bridge, too; and the latter's ensuing transparency ensures the wearer can admire the night blue sky - without missing a single star.

Dial and hands
Chronograph hand

Hour & Minute "Gouttes de Rosée"® dew-drop hands, blue-tinted with luminous coating

Rounded lacquered dial, diamond cut bead

Enamel dial (200th Anniversary collection)

Movement and finishing
Automatic click movement with chronograph function on dial; hours and minutes off-centre at 6 o'clock.

302-component LM54 caliber, designed and manufactured by Louis Moinet

Winding: Automatic, bi-directional

Oscillations: 28,800 vibrations per hour

Frequency: 4Hz

Balance wheel: Glucydur, chronometer quality

5 position settings

Lines: 13 ¼

Power reserve: 48 hours

Jewels: 34

Diameter: 30.40 mm

Height: 8.90 mm

Decoration: Côtes de Genève, diamond-polished facets, diamond-cut chamfers and circular gears with 5N colour finish and straight-line steel.

"Energie Plus" system
Pawl winding mechanism

Pawl winding system: comprises a baseplate and two jewelled pawls

‘Crab claw' spring mechanism

Gearing: automatic wolf-teeth gear

Ball bearing: 7 Myrox balls (ceramic), diameter: 0.397 mm

Oscillating weight: Dual material, with concentric "Clous de Paris" and "Fleur-de-lis" pattern

Case and strap
Case: Original Louis Moinet®, composed of 52 pieces, design with two-part bezel and 6 screws, assembled at a 17° angle

Monopusher: "Clous de Paris" pattern

Material: 18K gold

Diameter: 46 mm

Thickness: 15.75 mm

Water resistance: 50 meters

Case back: Fitted with 7 screws, engraved with individual number and Louis Moinet symbols

Lugs: Screwed settings (1 black zircon jewel and 3 screws per lug)

Crystals: Two convex sapphire crystals with non-reflective coating on both faces

Crown protection: Patent pending

Distance between lugs: 24 mm

Strap: Hand-sewn Louisiana alligator leather with alligator lining

Buckle: 18K gold folding clasp with "Fleur-de-lis" motif, two-strand, black DLC-treated steel